Some time ago we talked about Domaine Joblot’s Clos de la Servoisine red in its 2004 vintage. That was seven years ago, and we would like to recall that memory while checking the current state of this Givry wine. Moreover, we have the chance to compare with a 2005 vintage bottle. Should we find clues about how such different vintages can affect this burgundian cru?
It was 2004 a problematic vintage for reds. Because of the cold and wet July and August months (although it got better in September), the storms, and the high yields. It was said to be a vigneron vintage. Those who normally do it well at the vineyards would make a big difference regarding fruit quality. A good fruit selection at the cellar would also help. Doing so, some were able to produce fine terroir wines. In any case, they were wines of high acidity, more elegant than powerful, and with an evident Pinot Noir character.
But 2005 came, and for many producers it was among the best vintages in the last two decades. There were almost nothing to do at the vineyard. Same situation at the cellar. Nothing went wrong. The 2004/05 winter was a very cold one that kill almost any possible plague at the vines, leaving nothing but healthy plants behind. The summer was dry and not too warm (much less than 2003). This favoured a slow and progressive ripening of small and thick-skinned berries, full of flavour. Good concentration, acidity, and mature tannins. Acceptable yields, lower than 2004.
Let us see how our two bottles represent all this. The 2004 Clos de la Servoisine shows lighter in colour, with a more vegetal and less fruity nose. We could say that there is some humidity here. The 2005 has more ripe fruit, more clean, more must and skins, but also we can feel more the alcohol. There is more concentration in 2005, more body than in the thinner 2004. Acidity is more present in the later but because of less balance.
It would be easy to conclude that 2005 is a better sample in every sense, but the fact is that we can not simplify that much. It is true that 2005 has more concentration, length, and overall balance. But 2004 feels delicate and fresh, and could make a better fit with many foods. In any case they are not wines of power, and they still need time in bottle to fully express their origins and vintage character. We think they might follow very different paths.